Cleaning the 50BMG

The ammunition you have received has the exclusive ACCULUBE 10X or ACCULUBE 10X coated bullets. These coated bullets have been shown to reduce pressure and fouling, increase accuracy, and extend barrel life in most rifles if properly used and cleaned. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOUR RIFLE IS PROPERLY CLEANED BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO SHOOT COATED BULLETS AND THEN PROPERLY CLEANED AFTER FIRING.

Please remember that after you completely clean a barrel it must be fouled with one shot. The first shot after cleaning will seldom hit the intended point of impact. It can be several inches off-- there is no rule of thumb, so please foul the rifle with one shot to insure good accuracy in a clean rifle.

1. Moly coated bullets, when fired, leave a light film of moly coating in the barrel. Properly coated bullets are not a risk of any kind to the barrel. It is necessary to fire from 5 to 10 shots of moly coated bullets after a complete/deep barrel cleaning. Basically you “cure” the bullets into the barrel and then it is ready to shoot. You may experience a different point of impact (while close) on non “cured” barrel. Do not adjust your scope-- shoot and cure the barrel. Remember this only occurs on thoroughly cleaned barrels.

2. ACCULUBE 10X is a modified Tungsten Disulfide Aero Space product (with a very special application process) that clearly reduces pressure, reduces fouling, increases accuracy, and does not remain in the barrel. Because it does not remain in the barrel, it does not require “curing” in. Basically the second shot fired from a thoroughly clean barrel hits in the same place as say shot number 20.

1. Method to secure rifle for cleaning- must be very secure- you are going to be rough.

2. Cleaning rod in good condition with rotating handle. A one piece coated rod is preferred. Must be proper size to match caliber of rifle.

7. Proper size and length cleaning rod and bronze jag. (Not a slotted or nylon jag).

13. Not required, but very helpful-- a cover for the stock at the end of the chamber. It will keep the cleaning material off the stock. Saran Wrap will work.

For the best cleaning we prefer wrap style patches. They provide a large cleaning surface, fit very tight, and hold more liquid or cleaning material than other types of patches. They are the best. A wrap patch is a soft cotton patch that wraps around the jag rather than being placed on the point and pushed through. The proper procedure for wrap patches is as follows;

Using a wrap style patch, roll it on to the jag and soak with your liquid or cover with bore paste. Push into the bore. If too large, tear off material until it fits firmly. You can also use a wrap patch to clean the chamber by adding material to the proper fit.

Never assume that your new rifle is clean from the manufacturer. Please follow the following procedure for cleaning;

2. Use a 50 BMG bore guide to protect the chamber (call us if you do not have a bore guide). Always clean bolt action rifles from the chamber end of the rifle. MAKE SURE THE BORE GUIDE IS MADE FOR YOUR RIFLE TOO! It must fit tight.

3. Select the proper rod size. For a 50 BMG it must be at least 35 caliber to work and not bend. If you use a rod that is too small you may bend or break it. It should be at least 42 inches long.

4. Use only a 50 BMG jag or brush. A 50 caliber black powder brush or jag will not work. If they are not marked, measure them with a caliper. The jag should not fit tight, the brush must fit tight. Use bronze or nylon brushes. Never use a stainless steel on quality rifle barrels.

5. Push patches are either round or square. Wrap patches actually wrap around the jag. Never pull a push patch back through the barrel dirty. Push it through and remove at the end of the barrel. (Why bring dirt back through your clean barrel). Wrap patches can be treated the same way. Your patch should fit snug to tight, but not over tight to a point where the rod bends.

6. REMOVE MUZZLE BRAKE IF YOU HAVE ONE. Never Loctite your muzzle brake on. It is important to keep the muzzle brake clean. See instructions for cleaning muzzle brake. On some models of 50 BMG’s it is not possible to remove the muzzle brake though. Do your best to clean with it on.

7. Secure your rifle in a cleaning cradle of some kind. We sell them if you do not have one. You can also use a bench vise with protected jaws which will not scratch the barrel. Place your barrel in the protected vise and secure with action end higher than the barrel for good drainage.

8. Place a bowl or trash can at the end of the barrel to catch the patches and fluid that will exit the barrel.

This is not required for rifles tuned by Arizona Ammunition. We have already done it this for your rifle.

There remains controversy about the need to break in custom rifle barrels. If they are properly hand lapped, they are smooth and ready to shoot. No break in may be required. It is very clear that factory rifle barrels are rough and need some type break in. It has been found that the Tubb FINAL FINISH™ helps break in for all types of barrels. It remains controversial if you should use coated bullets for break in. We use them with good results. A popular and well accepted break in procedure is as follows;

2. Clean after every shot for the first 10 shots. DO NOT OVER HEAT THE BARREL

3. Clean after every other shot from 11 to 20 shots. DO NOT OVER HEAT THE BARREL

4. Clean after every 5 shots from 21 to 50 shots. DO NOT OVER HEAT THE BARREL

5. After 50 shots, completely clean and you are ready. DO NOT OVER HEAT THE BARREL

1. Use David Tubb’s FINAL FINISH™ process-- much easier to do. You can do it or we will do it here for you. We sell loaded ammunition with the Tubb Final Finish^TM and provide instructions for doing it yourself.

This procedure is for a lighter cleaning of the rifle and not a deep cleaning. Deep cleaning is only required after a specified number of rounds listed in your documentation with your rifle. A general rule of thumb could be after 100 rounds follow the deep cleaning. Up to that point, use this one.

1. Insure that the rifle is unloaded. REMOVE THE MUZZLE BRAKE. Remove the detachable box magazine if there is one. Secure rifle in a rest or vise, insert bore guide and secure, cover stock with plastic or cloth. Saran Wrap will work. Point the muzzle down. Cover the scope lenses. Again, saran wrap will work.

2. Have all the material listed above close at hand for the cleaning process. General guide for when to clean with coated bullets;

a. Factory rifles- every 20-40 shots (these are not hand lapped) For Barretts, L.A.R. Armalite ETC.

b. Custom barrels- every 40 to 60 shots. (these are more smooth with hand lapped barrels). McBros. ROBAR, K&P

PLEASE NOTE; It has been reported by our customers that cyro treating the barrel will help cleaning by making the barrel less rough. Also the Tubb FINAL FINISH™ and the NECO Firelapping process can reduce roughness and thus improve ease of cleaning.

It is important to note that if you use bronze bullets or non-coated bullets the cleaning procedure must be more aggressive and more often. DOUBLE THE PROCEDURE! If you loose accuracy, the rifle is likely fouled by powder, copper or both. Most rifles using non-coated bullets will foul out in 10 shots.

3. Place a LOOSE patch on the jag (either wrap or push) and soak with BoreTech Benchrest Blend. Push through barrel slowly and out the muzzle end, remove, and discard. Let solvent set in barrel for two minutes. This will remove the loose powder fouling. Do this three times with a loose patch. On the last and forth patch push a dry tight patch through to remove the BoreTech. Repeat until clean.

4. Use a new patch and soak with a copper remover and push through the barrel with slow back and forth stroking action every 2 inches and work out the other end. Remove and examine for either blue or copper color. If the color is bright blue or green, continue with the solvent. Let the solvent set for two minutes each time before starting on the next patch. Use a new patch each time until the copper color is gone. If the copper is coming off with difficulty continue with the following procedure.

Note that the copper fouling is far worse 6 inches from the end of the barrel to the muzzle and will require more soaking and cleaning.

If the copper is still showing, use a brush, cover with IOSSO or any bore paste and slowly with a stroking action back and forth, push the patch through to the end and remove and discard. It will be very black--very black. Continue until the patch is no longer black or even gray.

Once the patch shows clean, return to the copper remover and test again. Soak the patch and push through to the end and examine. If no blue or green color shows, the copper has been successfully removed. If not continue to clean with the copper remover. Remember to let the solvent soak for one minute each time.

5. Once the copper is gone then proceed with a new patch and soak with BoreTech Benchrest Blend and clean until the patch is clear. Use a new patch each time and do not let it soak in the barrel.

6. Using a clean patch soak with Kroil and push through the barrel to neutralize the solvents. One or two passes should be fine. No need to soak barrel.

7. Final clean with a plain clean patch-- no solvent of any kind. There will be solvent in the chamber, the boreguide, at the muzzle that may show up on the patch. Do not be confused.

8. Clean the crown, action, and the chamber. On the chamber and action use a chamber mop and a chamber lug cleaner. Here is a good place to use plain rubbing alcohol, Gun Scrubber or Brake Cleaner. Remove all film, oil, and fouling from every where in the chamber and on the action. They will be very dirty at first, but will cleanup quickly. Simply wipe the muzzle or crown off with a clean rag.

This procedure is for a heavy and complete cleaning of the rifle. This should strip out all moly, copper and powder fouling left in the barrel.

2. Have all the material listed above close at hand for the cleaning process. General guide on when to clean with coated bullets;

a. Factory rifles- every 100 shots (these are not hand lapped). Like Barrett, Armalite, L.A.R.

b. Custom barrels-100. (should be smoother due to hand lapping.) McBros, ROBAR, K&P

PLEASE NOTE; It has been reported by our customers that cryo treating the barrel will help cleaning by making the barrel less rough. Also the Tubb FINAL FINISH™ and the NECO Firelapping process can reduce roughness and thus improve ease of cleaning..

Remember that Bronze bullets and non coated copper bullet will foul quicker than coated bullets. It requires more cleaning. If you lose accuracy, the rifle is likely fouled. It only takes 10 shots with non coated bullets.

3. Get the proper size nylon brush (must fit tight) or bronze brush and put USP, JB bore paste, or IOSSO paste on it very generously and begin brushing. Brush at least 20 times-- it will be very black. Add more paste if necessary. This may ruin the brush. If so use it for the next smaller caliber you have next time. (If you do not have a nylon brush use a bronze brush)

4. Remove brush and put jag on with solvent soaked patch. Use BoreTech Benchrest Blend as the solvent and use as many patches as necessary to get all the paste out of it. When clean, use a plain patch to finish cleaning. It may be in the chamber and the bore guide too.

5. Use a new loose patch and soak with a copper remover and push through the barrel slowly and out the other end, remove, and examine for either blue or copper color. Let solvent set for one minute. If the color is bright continue with the solvent and a new patch each time until the copper color is gone. Let the solvent set for one minute each time. If the copper is coming off with difficulty continue with the following procedure.

If there is a lot of copper remaining then use a new patch, nylon brush, or bronze brush, cover with UPS or any Bore Paste and slowly with a stroking action back and forth, push the patch through to the end and remove and discard. It will be very black--very black. Continue until the patch is no longer black or even gray. This may be 20 or 30 times. Keep bore guide clean too.

Note that the copper fouling is far worse 6 inches from the end of the barrel to the muzzle and will require more soaking and cleaning.

Once the patch shows clean return to the copper remover and test again. Soak the patch and push through to the end and examine. If clear discard. If not continue to clean with the copper remover. Let the solvent soak for one minute each time.

5. Once the copper is gone then proceed with a new patch and soak with BoreTech Benchrest Blend and clean until the patch is clear. Use a new patch each time. Let the solvent soak for one minute each time.

6. Using a clean patch soak with Kroil and push through the barrel to neutralize the solvents. One or two passes should be fine. No need to let soak.

7. Final clean with a plain clean patch-- no solvent of any kind. There will be solvent in the chamber, the boreguide and at the muzzle that may show up on the patch. Do not be confused.

8. Clean the crown, action, and the chamber. On the chamber and action use a chamber mop and a chamber lug cleaner. Here is a good place to use the Gun Scrubber or Brake Cleaner. Remove all film, oil, and fouling from every where in the chamber and on the action. They will be very dirty at first and will cleanup quickly. Simply wipe the muzzle or crown off with a clean rag.

1. Use the Gun Scrubber or Brake Cleaner and spray the entire bolt and remove all oil and grease. Wipe with cloth.

2. Using the tooth brush scrub the bolt face and remove all brass and power/primer residue. Get it clean. Use the Gun Scrubber or Brake Cleaner to help. Use the BoreTech Benchrest Blend to help too.

5. Using a light gun lube, lube the BACK of the lugs on the bolt and the cocking ramp. Function in the action and insure that it moves smoothly. Add more lube if necessary to insure that it is smooth.

6. The bolt is now clean- DO NOT OIL (The only thing not cleaned is the firing pin and we do that here.)

2. Use the Gun Scrubber or Brake Cleaner (Both are sprays) and soak the brake from all angles. This will remove any loose debris. Now put BoreTech Benchrest Blend in a cup and soak the muzzle brake for 1/2 hour (It will not damage the finish).

3. After soaking for 1/2 hour remove and use a stiff bristle brush to scrub the lose debris off the brake inside and out. A new tooth brush will work. Also use the Gun Scrubber or the Brake Cleaner and spray from all angles to get clean.

5. Final clean with Gun Scrubber or Brake Cleaner and reinstall. Make sure the thread on the barrel are clean and do not have any oil or grease on them.

6. Reinstall brake and tighten very tight using tool provided with rifle. Or call us and we will help you. The brake must be tight to be safe and to be accurate. You can use 1 drop of blue Loctite on the threads if you wish.

We offer a muzzle brake saver product that once clean, will reduce the fouling the brake collects and make it easier when you do clean it. Muzzle brake can wear out if not kept clean.

This cleaning procedure is as complete as possible. IT IS NOT OVER DONE. Every rifle is different and cleaning requirements can be slightly different too. We recommend that you follow this procedure as closely as possible. If you have questions please call or write us. Short cuts will cost you accuracy. Good shooting and hunting.

The wrap patch is the greatest cleaning patch available. It is preferred by many top competitors because of their effectiveness. We use them exclusively for the 50 BMG which has an incredible fouling problem. They can be easily adjusted for a custom fit for maximum cleaning. They are a very absorbent cotton material and can not be used as a push style patch. They provide the best performance as a wrap patch. The are the best you can get.

Copyright © 2007 Arizona Ammunition, LLC. Last modified: July 15, 2008

Copyright © 2007 Arizona Ammunition, LLC.
Last modified: July 15, 2008